Go Guernsey Bike ~ Our Favorite Day (Day 6)

Not long after we booked our cruise I mentioned to Les' sister, Lisa, that we would be visiting the island of Guernsey.  She asked if I had read "The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society" by Mary Ann Shaffer & Annie Barrows.  I had not read the book but added it to my list.  Part of the book description says this:

 

January 1946: London is emerging from the shadow of the Second World War, and writer Juliet Ashton is looking for her next book subject. Who could imagine that she would find it in a letter from a man she’s never met, a native of the island of Guernsey, who has come across her name written inside a book by Charles Lamb. . . .

As Juliet and her new correspondent exchange letters, Juliet is drawn into the world of this man and his friends—and what a wonderfully eccentric world it is. The Guernsey Literary and Potato Peel Pie Society—born as a spur-of-the-moment alibi when its members were discovered breaking curfew by the Germans occupying their island—boasts a charming, funny, deeply human cast of characters, from pig farmers to phrenologists (someone who claims to be able to read your character from the shape of your skull), literature lovers all.

 

While I enjoyed the story very much,  I also learned a lot about this little island.  It is about 30 miles from the coast of France and about 80 miles from the coast of England.  Guernsey was part of the Duchy of Normandy until 1204, when the Channel Islands remained loyal to the English Crown, splitting from mainland Normandy. 

 

During the Second World War, Guernsey was invaded and occupied by Nazi Germany. After five years of occupation, the island was liberated on May 9, 1945, which is celebrated annually as Liberation Day. 

 

Our options for activities on Guernsey were pretty limited.  That's when I decided to go directly to the source - The Islands of Guernsey website.  Under activities I found "cycling."  Bingo!  There was a link on the page for Go Guernsey Land & Sea.  For about $25 each, I was able to reserve two bikes for the entire day... and what a day it was!

 

It started with a short water taxi from our ship to St. Peter Port

We then headed to Coco Cafe for coffee and the use of their free WiFi.  I hadn't been able to pay for our rental, or as they say in the UK "bike hire," from home, but was able to do so once we were on the island.

 

We then found our bikes and met one of the owners - Trudy Le Poidevin.  With very little adjustments needed we were soon on our way.  The route started going up - way up.  We went about 300 feet in half a mile.  That's not your normal warmup!

 

Our first stop was Jerbourg Point.  Quite a few buses and vans were there and a kind lady took our picture.  A local gentleman also gave us some tips for our journey.

 

The views were spectacular!

We rode through the Hotel Jerbourg parking lot:

Riding on Guernsey was one of the most pleasant rides I have ever done - even though we were riding on the left side of the road!  It felt strange at first, but we adjusted quickly.  The drivers were all so courteous.  The roads were narrow, with no bike lanes, so if there was oncoming traffic they waited patiently until they could pass.  After just a few miles I felt very comfortable on the roads.  We would find that to be the case when we rode in Scotland as well.  Cycling and bicycles in Europe are more of a part of life than here in the US.

We stopped for a few pictures of the Torteval Parish Church, built in 1816.  It contains the oldest bell in the Channel Islands, cast in France in 1432.

Next stop was the Batterie Generaloberst Dollmann - named after German General Friedrich Dollmann.  He served during World War I, was promoted to general in 1936 and served during World War II.  There are questions about his death on June 29, 1944.  This came three days after the fall of Cherbourg.  Cherbourg had been occupied by the Germans since 1940.  It was the only deep-water port in the region and was the primary objective of the American troops who had landed at Utah Beach during the Battle of Normandy. Hitler was furious when Cherbourg fell and insisted that Dollmann be court martialed. Some sources say he suffered a heart attack, while others say he committed suicide by taking poison, forced to to do so by Hitler.

 

 

When the Germans conquered France in 1940, they also captured a stock of French 220 mm. guns that had been built in 1917. Four of these guns were sent to Guernsey to be part of the coastal defense of the former British island. The guns had a range of 22 km. and were operational in late 1941. They were set in open ring positions, with crew and ammunition bunkers nearby. The battery which was initially conceived as a temporary reinforcement, remained operational throughout the war.

 

 

We continued around the island, stopping for a few more pictures.  Have I mentioned the beautiful weather?

Our total ride was 28.7 miles in just under 3 hours of moving time.  We rode the entire island!

We locked our bikes back where we found them and returned to Coco.  We split a sandwich and fries and each had something to drink.  We aren't smiling because we are unhappy, we were just a little too tired to make the effort!  Believe me, we were happy!  If you look really closely you'll see that my eyes are closed.

 

Once our tummies were filled, we wandered around the charming town.

Les found a friend.  

 

 

What we didn't know at the time was this is a statue of Victor Hugo!  During his exile from France, Victor Hugo lived in Guernsey for 15 years, where he wrote many of his most famous novels including Toilers of the Sea and Les Miserables.

 

This is the Liberation Monument.  In June 1940, just days before the Nazis occupied their island, 17,000 Guernsey residents were evacuated to the South Coast of England.  This evacuation included 5,000 school children who were evacuated with their teachers at very short notice. Many of the smaller children were told that they were going on a school trip, so as not to frighten them.  They didn't know at the time that they were to stay away for five years.  This statue represents reunited families and liberation.

You may be wondering why I labeled this "Our Favorite Day."  What was so special about riding bikes?  I don't know if I can explain it.  This is who we are.  We love being outside, exploring, breathing in the fresh air.  We love it when it's just the two of us.  This was a day when we were physically tired, but so mentally refreshed.  We were content.  That makes a perfect day for us!